No matter how advanced a skincare ingredient is, it cannot trigger regeneration if it simply sits on the surface. To bypass the skin’s strict defense system, only extremely small molecules—typically under 50 nm (about 1/10th the thickness of a human hair)—can penetrate effectively.
To overcome this barrier, scientists utilize Drug Delivery Systems (DDS). Today, we will explore one of the most innovative physical delivery methods: Spicules, the biological micro-needles.
1. What are Spicules? (Microscopic Bio-Needles)
Spicules are microscopic needles, typically 100–200 micrometers in length. These are derived from marine sponges (primarily Spongilla lacustris).
The manufacturing process involves a sophisticated bio-engineering approach:
- Chemical Purification: The sponge is treated to remove organic matter, leaving only the pure Silica (SiO2) skeleton.
- Milling & Sterilization: The skeleton is finely milled into needle shapes and sterilized.
- Active Loading: In advanced formulations, beneficial ingredients are even “loaded” into the tiny pores of the spicule structure itself.
2. Creating “Tunnels” for Active Ingredients
On the skin, spicules act as physical “tunnels” that puncture the lipid barrier to deliver vital signals.
While high-molecular-weight substances like PDRN (read more here) or Exosomes (read more here) have difficulty penetrating the skin on their own, Spicules create the necessary pathways. This allows these regenerators to reach the stem cells and the deeper layers of the epidermis, where they can truly initiate repair and growth.
3. The Scientific Evidence
Research has demonstrated the power of these micro-structures using spicules derived from the sponge Haliclona sp. (referred to as SHS). These sharp-edged, rod-shaped needles (~120 micrometers in length and ~7 micrometers in diameter) showed remarkable results:
- Massive Permeation Increase: Scientists found that using spicules allowed a large fluorescent molecule—20 times larger than the standard 50 nm limit—to penetrate the skin 62 times more effectively.
- Proven Safety: The study confirmed that while spicules cause mild skin irritation, the skin effectively recovers through its natural self-healing process.
Note: Spicules used in professional cosmetics undergo even more rigorous purification processes to ensure maximum safety and minimal irritation for daily use.
Reference: Zhang, Saiman, et al. “Skin delivery of hydrophilic biomacromolecules using marine sponge spicules.” Molecular Pharmaceutics 14.9 (2017): 3188-3200.
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